The sand eel is a key part of the diet of a bass. It lives in sand and burrows in the day time though it is an effective bait throughout the fishing day.
Hook – Mustad 34007 #2
Thread – GSP
Underbody – Fishy fibres pearl
Body – Tinsel and fishy fibre yellow
Topping – Fishy fibre green
Head – Resin and stick on eyes
Wind a bead of thread at the head and tie in the underbody, tinsel, body and topping. The underbody should be shorter than the tinsel or topping.
Using UV resin form a clear body to the bend.
Add the eyes and coat further with resin. Cure and coat with varnish for a non-stick finish.
A really good point fly for reservoirs and very easy to tie with a minimum of materials.
Hook- Kamasan B100 #10
Head – Bead gold 3mm with lead wire behind
Thread – 8/0 Red
Tail – Marabou red
Body – Glass body
Place the bead on the hook and secure with a few turns of lead wire followed by the thread.
Tie in the marabou tail and rip to length. Tie in the body material.
Wrap the body in touching turns and sure with a whip finish. Varnish the head.
This is a really and effective dry fly well suited to the mayfly hatch in the UK
Hook – Dry fly long shank #12
Thread – 8/0 grey
Tail and wing – Grey squirrel tail
Body – Veleveteen dams grey
Hackle – Blue dun cock
Place the hook in the vice and tie on the thread. Tie in the tail – there is no need to stack the hair.
Tie in the wing with stacked hair and cut at a taper. secure the materials.
Dub the body and tie in the hackle. Form a ramp of thread in front of the wing and ensure the wing stands upright.
Wind the hackle in behind and in front of the wing. secure with thread , whip finish and varnish.
The Deceiver is a great fly for bass. For this variant I have tied it in black so it gives a good silhouette in sunny conditions.
Hook – Mustad 34007 #4
Thread – 8/0 Black
Tail – Black chicken feathers
Body – Holographic tinsel
Hackle – Flash and black bucktail
Head – Stick on eyes
Place the hook in the vice and lay down a bed of thread. Tie in the hackle feathers about 2 per side and about twice the length of the shank.
Wind the tinsel along the shank from the head to the bend and back. Lay down a layers of varnish for the tinsel to set into and then tie in the flash at the head.Add the bucktail and then on the top some silver flash. Build up a head and varnish.Secure the eyes with glue and then varnish the whole head.
A white variant is shown here using a cap of peacock here to give the appearance of the fish.
Pattern I notice on a Romanian site – it looks good and one I will try.
Hook – Jig #14
Bead – Tungsten Silver 3mm
Thread – GSP
Tag – Green sparkle micro chenille
Head cover – Partridge feather
Body – Hare fur
Place the bead on the hook and put it in the vice. Tie in the green tag and then tie in the partridge feather.
Wind the partridge feather about 3 turns and secure.
Dub the body, whip finish and varnish.
This is a pattern I am trying to develop -if you use please let me know the results.
Hook Czech Nymph #18
Underbody – Flat lead
Thread – GSP or red
Body – Nymph-it pearl
Rib – Body glass brown
Lay down a layer of lead and varnish.
Tie in the rib and nymph- it at the bend. Form the body of nymph it and then rib with the body glass. Secure and whip finish. Colour the head and varnish.
This is a very successful nymph in clear water. In coloured water I use it with an orange tinsel body and orange (Hends 294) thorax.
Hook – Jig Hook #14
Bead – 3mm Tungsten Silver
Thread – GSP or to match thorax
Rib – Wire red 0.18mm
Body – Tinsel purple
Body – Chenille Standard heat sealed at one end
Thorax – Flash – Hends #17
Leg – Duck flank
Place the bead on the hook and insert in the vice. Tie in the wire rib and returning to the eye tie in the tinsel
Wind the tinsel to the bend and back. Lay down a bed of varnish before winding the tinsel to her secure the tinsel. Tie in the Chenille.
Wind the wire in open turns to secure the chenille to the shank. Secure the wire and break off.
Dub the thorax and tie in 8 fibres of duck flank for legs. whip finish and varnish to complete.